The 2017 is a remarkably pretty yet kaleidoscopic style of Sangiovese, with a whimsical bouquet of fresh rose buds, stems and all, bright cherry with spicy underpinnings of clove, shavings of cedar and mentholated herbs. It hovers gracefully across the palate, lifted and ethereal, with tart red berries and exotic spices cascading across its chiseled acidic core. A contrast of sweet fruit and savory saltiness keeps you guessing with each passing second. The 2017 finishes with round tannins, utterly unaffected by the harsh conditions of the vintage. Violet-tinged wild berries and a caking minerality seem to encase yet crackle upon the senses. It’s difficult to understand how this complex beauty hails from such a warm and dry vintage. If anything, a more immediate character is encapsulated here, yet it's still just as deep as collectors would expect. Due to the dry heat of the 2017 vintage, Gianfranco Soldera decided to begin harvest on August 26th, the earliest ever at the estate. - VM
VM95December 2022